The challenges of touring in those days are vividly illustrated by Moscheles’ account of his journey to Ireland in the year 1826. After concluding a lengthy tour of provincial towns, he began his to Dublin.
His wife, Charlotte, in her edition of Ignaz’s diaries [1] states that he began his journey from Liverpool. This seems highly unlikely, as it is on record that gave a concert at the Bath Assembly Rooms, on 3 January 1826. To be sure his diary states that "On the 4th of January, at seven a.m., I started from Liverpool and arrived at Birmingham at eight in the evening.” No concert has been identified from around this time in Liverpool. Charlotte’s assertion reflects either a misunderstanding of the itinerary or a compression of events in her editorial narrative.
On the 1 January 1826, Moscheles entered in his diary: "To-day I can call my happiness my own; by tomorrow I shall have left it. But courage! it must be so! I am in honour bound to fulfil my engagements." He describes with much minuteness the dangers and difficulties in those days’ inseparable from a long journey, and of which we, in our age of rail and steamer, can scarcely form an idea.
"On the 4th of January, at seven a.m. I started from [Bath] Liverpool and arrived at Birmingham at eight in the evening. On the 5th I travelled without stopping day or night.
At two a.m. I had a grievous contretemps.
We were close to Bangor, and I, the only passenger, was turned out of the warm
coach into the cold, raw night, and made to cross the rushing river in an open
boat. [1] It gave me the shivers, but I stood my ground, muttering my
watchword, Courage, and patience!
On the opposite shore a forlorn
and solitary passenger got inside the mail-coach, which was standing in readiness.
Thus, we jogged on for the rest of the night wind blowing, snow falling - until
at last, at five a.m., we arrived at Holyhead.
January 6th. —Eventful day! Severe trial! God's saving hand! In the hotel I found a respectable set of fellow-travellers, consisting of two gentlemen and one lady, ready to embark for Dublin. They were still waiting for the Chester mail, which arrived at seven o'clock. We were told that there was no steamboat to take us across the Channel; that the violent winds of the last few days had kept all the steamers on the Irish side, but that a sailing vessel would start immediately, and carry the mails across in from six to seven hours. Would we passengers cross in that vessel? We agreed and embarked shortly after seven o'clock. It rained in torrents, and the sea was so high that we soon betook ourselves to our berths. I suffered so violently that after a few hours I was completely prostrate.
The gale meanwhile increased. I
counted the passing hours. It grew dark, but we did not land. The steward, on
being asked when we should be released, whispered, “Who knows? we are doing
badly!” - Words too clearly verified by the lurching of the boat. Although I
lay smothered in blankets and clothes, my feet perished with cold. It cost me
no slight effort to shake off my drowsiness, and groping about, to discover
that the seawater had got into my berth; the ship had become leaky.
There was no longer any mystery
about that, for the water came hissing into the cabin. The storm howled
fiercely; it was pitch-dark. The captain could offer no other comfort than the
assurance that we were not far from shore. Of course, not near enough to land.
We were surrounded by rocks and sandbanks, and yet not near enough for a
distress signal to be perceptible from the coast. At last, after a long battle
and the most fearful shocks from the waves, which knocked our vessel about like
a plaything, we were able to throw out anchors, and there we poor victims lay till
daybreak. In this sad plight, however, I had not lost heart; faith in an
Almighty Providence sustained me. I could think with calmness of my wife and
child. They sleep peacefully, thank God, without sharing my hard fate.
They will either see me again and rejoice, or bear my loss, with the help of God. I thought with painful composure of my other friends and relations. It seemed but a little step from this world to the next. At last, in the afternoon, the welcome tidings came, “We are all right, a boat has reached our ship and will take us up.” Whereupon, after getting together our goods and chattels, we were thrown, so to speak, with them into the reeling boat, and, after a short fight with the foaming surf, landed in Howth harbour.
There I hired a post chaise, which carried me (a seven-mile journey) to the city. The dreary, sandy plain, the country dotted over with ruins, the sorry aspect of the people, did not, I am bound to confess, impress me very favourably. At last, I arrived in Dublin, drove over the beautiful Carlisle Bridge, [3] and the Liffey, to Westmoreland Street, where I rested for a few hours in a lodging which Pigott, [4] the music seller, had hired for me."
Notes:
[1] Moscheles, Ignaz. Recent Music and Musicians: As Described in the Diaries and Correspondence of Ignaz Moscheles. Edited by Charlotte Moscheles and adapted from the original German by A. D. Coleridge. New York: Henry Holt and Company, 1873.
[2] The Menai Bridge did not open until 30 January 1826, some three weeks after Moscheles journey to Holyhead.
[3] Carlisle Bridge is now O’Connell Bridge.
[4] Samuel J. Pigott was a Dublin cellist and music seller who established his firm around the 1820s on Westmoreland Street before moving to Grafton Street. Operating alongside contemporary Dublin dealers like Isaac Willis and Smollett Holden, Pigott built a business that supplied continental and British music scores to the local market and eventually became one of Ireland's major 19th-century music publishers.











